Estee Lauder's Marketing Strategies Are Conflicted, Warns Samuel S. Epstein, M.D.

CHICAGO, Dec. 27 /PRNewswire/ -- The following is a statement from Samuel S. Epstein, M.D., Chairman, Cancer Prevention Coalition:

Origins, one of the giant Estee Lauder companies, has recently launched a new line of cosmetic products. They claimed to be "a totally integrative approach to skin care ... to help your skin be as healthy as possible, (and) optimize its defenses against age accelerators."

However, review of these products reveals the following dangerous ingredients:

  -- Limonene, a well-known carcinogen, rated as such in 1990 by the
     National Toxicology Program.
  -- A large group of surfactants or emulsifiers, such as PEG-100 and
     ceteareth 20, known as ethoxylates.  Unless readily purified, and
     appropriately labeled to such effect, these ingredients are
     contaminated with high concentrations of the potent carcinogen ethylene
     oxide, and also dioxane.
  -- Parabens, which even at very low concentrations, produce toxic hormonal
     effects, known as endocrine disruptive, especially in male embryos and
     infants.
  -- Bisabolol, technically known as a "penetration enhancer," increases the
     deep penetration of cosmetic ingredients through the skin.
  -- Butylene glycol, related to the anti-freeze ethylene glycol, is a skin
     irritant.

Communication of these concerns to the CEO of Origins was met with the frank response that she was uninformed of these "scientific technicalities," and that she would communicate them to her parent company, Estee Lauder. However, a subsequent response from a senior Estee director attempted to challenge evidence on the carcinogenicity of Limonene on the irrelevant grounds that a European Council Directive, relating to the allergenic effects of Limonene, made no reference to carcinogenicity. Concerns on the other toxic ingredients were also not addressed. Nor was there any evidence, based on standard clinical trials, supporting the claimed anti-aging effects of the Origins products.

Of further interest, Estee explained that "the reason for the ingredient listing on a U.S. product is a business decision which allows us to sell the product globally. I fully support that decision, but will defer to the Brand (Origins) President if she feels otherwise ..." This policy is also consistent with an August 26, 2005 letter from Estee Lauder Japan's Manager of Regulatory Affairs, assuring that "There is no concerns in the Japanese public about Japanese cosmetic safety. Japanese and non-Japanese companies don't have made any special effort at improving safety of products."

In sharp contrast to Origins, another U.S. Estee company, Aveda, has taken active steps to phase out a wide range of hazardous ingredients, including those in Origins products.

Estee's dual national and international marketing policies are clearly conflicted with regard to ingredient safety. This is surprising, particularly in view of the credo of Fred Langhammer, Estee's previous President, that "safety sells."

Samuel S. Epstein, M.D. Chairman, Cancer Prevention Coalition Chicago, Illinois http://www.preventcancer.com/